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Track difficulty: Easy
Terrain elevation: Occassional steps along the way
Estimated time: 45 minutes (non-stop). 1 hour and 15 minutes (stopping for pictures)
Steps: 3285 approx.
Need: A pit stop in at least one of the famous local pubs (Australian Hotel, First Fleet Bar)
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Longing the time when house prices around Sydney's most premium area lowers? Back in time this was one of the most dangerous places around the City and nobody wanted to live here. Still, nobody can live here now but for a different reason (if you know what I mean). CitiTrails rediscovers the paths that were walked by first the convict settlers.
1: Obelisk of Distances
Point 'zero' from where all major NSW roads are measured. This is a long-standing monument since its foundation in 1818 as the official starting point from where all roads across NSW would start their official distance.
Built by convict labour (surprise surprise), this piece of history was built by the same architect which was behind the St James Church and Hyde Park design. Francis Greenway (1777-1837).
Today I work in Parramatta, which takes me around 25-30 minutes via express train. Parramatta is 15.5 miles far from the Obelisk - if you look closely it is engraved. That means I would have had to walk 6 hours back in time without stopping. Horse time that could have been 3 hours.
Sneak peak. You can see the Obelisk on the back. So you are very close to take a look at the most iconic anchor of all times. This is the Sirius Anchor, belonging to the HMS Sirius, flagship of the First Fleet which arrived to Australia, Botany Bay in 1788.
2: Customs House
Find a place where a previous point of arrival in the late 1800s - surrounded by deep waters as the original tidal zone - transformed itself into a significant building where customs history, a library, exhibitions, a co-working space and fine dining spaces meet altogether.
Dubbed as one of the most significant buildings since European settlement took place, the Customs House landmarks the beauty of colonialism with brand new spaces inside for community gatherings.
Remember to take iconic pictures both inside and outside. Can you spot what lies beneath the tiles of the building?
The 10km replica of Sydney's CBD currently lies beneath the tiles. Worth paying a free visit to look how big the City is at scale.
3: William Blight
Corruption out of Oz! That was William Blight's mission as former Governor of New South Wales (1806-1809). Goal: To reestablish order in the corrupt rum trade across NSW.
Problem: Coming back from Timor island after been purposefully left stranded in his HMS Bounty in 1789 by crooked mutineers that went again his orders.
Problem 2: After successfully running as Governor, this created problems within the major military accused of corruption by Blight. He was placed under house arrest later on.
Problem3: Not that it really affects anybody. But if you come closer...can you see the scar on his face? It is rumoured Blight's dad threw a sharp object aiming at a couple of chickens and hens. Blight was unfortunate to get the cut on his face.
Only the braves stand next to him, so I did that!
4: Cadman's Cottage:
A beautiful standalone sandstone house from 1816 can be found near The Rocks which served for a variety of purposes. This house is the 2nd oldest surviving building since colony times and let me tell you what was used for:
Harbour Barracks: Supervised shipping across the Sydney harbour and rostered boat crews employed in transportation of goods.
Water Police Station: Served to the duties of NSW Water Police with in-built cells, living quarters, and a clearing house. Strategic placement of the cottage helped oversight of the waters
Sailors Home: A residence for sailors that used to come around Circular Quay, and accommodate visiting merchant sailors at the time.
5: Fortune of War:
From the far right corner of Cadman's Cottage, there's a staircase (then turn left)
that leads you to one of Sydney's oldest existing bar. Fortune of War.
However, I wanted to show you a very cool thing. One of the last gas glowing posts left alive since European settlement before electricity came in 1904. Gas lights brought light to Sydney in 1841, and it is an effort this one has come all the way 180+ years ago!
Another bonus for you. Once you pass the pedestrian walk that you can see in the lamp post. You turn yourself and get to appreciate No.106 at George St. This building was part of the Sailors Home Society, made by powerful businessman that wanted to cater accommodation services to arriving sailors of all nationalities. Small cubicles of 2.5m x 2.5m were the norm back then. This place was also served as a Marionette Theatre.
Finally, the Fortune of War Hotel. Battling the title of the oldest pub operating since 1828 (Lord Nelson Hotel & Hero of Waterloo dispute the title). That is nearing 200 years of operation. It was well-known back in the days for the being the first and last stop of ANZAC forces that were about to depart to defend Australia in wartime - to face the 'Fortune of War'.
6: Jack Mundey Mural:
Known for his activism in previous years, many of the heritage buildings from Australia's old days owe their preservation and standing to Jack Mundey. The Rocks pays respect and tribute to this legend that also fought for gay rights, feminism, and environmental concerns. I also think this mural its an awesome piece of work to take a picture of!
7: Nurses Walk & Suez Canal:
The Nurses Walk was a previous shortcut used by nurses taking incoming convicts to Sydney's local hospitals back in 1816. But with history aside, what I like about this alley is the contrast with the City. The view can tell how things change in 200 years. Have a look.
The Suez Canal was a hard pass for any visitor coming to Sydney. Pricy boutiques surround the area of what was the playgrounds for thieves and gangs hidden across the alley back in time. Prostitution was the norm and drunken sailors were up for the grabs. I was lucky enough to be able to walk the nicer version of today.
In essence, The Rocks is this. The alleyways, the unkwnown maze, and the combination of Colonialism vs Modern Days.
8: Commercial Stuff:
If I was to suggest you to explore boutiques and cafes across The Rocks, I'd rather not put that here as it becomes more of a promotional trail. However, if I were to invest my time in it, definitely.
Come around Spirit Gallery where you'd find authentic didgeridoos and similar aboriginal masterpieces.
Then give yourself a treat with Sticky's viral cutting candy store.
9: The Settlers:
How did you gain freedom as a convict in the Land of Oz? Work on your assigned parcel, plant your own seeds...and then build a home for yourself if you want. Work for your freedom. The rest is history. In short, Australia realised that bringing 'free' skilled migrants to work and live in Down Under could help build a country.
10: Foundation Park:
Mid-modernity hits gets, the ball rolling later in Sydney. Hidden behind the shops of Playfair St, pass a very narrow lane (not expecting something different), find 8 different houses that left their footprint when they were built in late 1800s and then demolished in 1938. Some of Sydney's most ambitious redevelopment plans did not succeed as expected.
This is a place to sit back and reflect how people planned to live in the 19th century in spaces no larger than 3m x 3m, with each house hosting capacity of up to 12 people.
Can you imagine living in these spaces? This is a very accurate representation of the living amenities back then.
I could not get a hold of myself and tried to imagine what it would look like to live in the basement where the kitchen and washing areas would be :)
Final thoughts
The untourist side of The Rocks means you don't have to worry about expensive spending. Rather, its an invitation to come back to the roots where Australia started its major developing. Convicts and first batches of 'free' immigrants started creating what 200 years would later become one of Sydney's hottest spots to visit. Glad to have spend $7 in coffee while following the best of CitiTrails.
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